Indian craftsmanship, long admired on the global stage, serves as a rich source of inspiration for numerous international fashion and lifestyle labels. However, the true creators behind these intricate works—skilled artisans—are often overlooked, living in the shadows without recognition or reward. Despite the international reverence for their art, the artisans themselves remain nameless, and their contributions are unacknowledged.
Recently, Radhika Gupta, CEO of Edelweiss Mutual Fund and a known advocate for creative integrity, publicly criticized a well-known luxury fashion brand for exploiting India’s iconic Lucknowi mukaish embroidery. This traditional technique, rooted in cultural heritage and meticulous craftsmanship, was allegedly used in one of the brand’s high-end coats—priced at an exorbitant $200,000 (approximately Rs 1.7 crore)—without any credit to the original artists or reference to its Indian origins.
Taking to the social media platform X (formerly Twitter), Gupta voiced her disappointment over what she termed as blatant cultural appropriation. According to her, the elaborate coat was the result of the efforts of 12 Indian artisans who spent 34 days crafting the embroidery. Despite the time, skill, and heritage invested in the piece, the brand failed to acknowledge the origin of the art form or the artists who made it possible. Gupta highlighted how this is a recurring issue in global fashion—Indian crafts are often celebrated visually but stripped of their backstory and the rightful credit to the creators.
"12 Indian artisans. 34 days of work. No credit. No context. No mention of India. The world loves Indian craftsmanship—but rarely credits the craftspeople. And almost never shares the value," she lamented.
She stressed that while the world continues to benefit from Indian aesthetics, the power to shape narratives, pricing, and branding remains with those outside the country. This imbalance means that while the finished product dazzles on global runways, the hands that built it remain invisible.
Mukaish embroidery, deeply embedded in the history of Lucknow, involves weaving metallic threads into fabric to form delicate, web-like designs. Known locally as fardi ka kaam, this embroidery creates striking geometric textures. Traditionally combined with chikankari, another Lucknow-based hand embroidery, mukaish is considered a vanishing art. Few artisans continue to pursue it today, and even fewer receive the credit they deserve.
Gupta called upon India to transform from merely a supplier of materials to a powerful storyteller of its heritage. Just as Japan and Korea leveraged design and pop culture to build global influence, India, she argued, should assert its cultural authority through its rich and unparalleled crafts.
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Recently, Radhika Gupta, CEO of Edelweiss Mutual Fund and a known advocate for creative integrity, publicly criticized a well-known luxury fashion brand for exploiting India’s iconic Lucknowi mukaish embroidery. This traditional technique, rooted in cultural heritage and meticulous craftsmanship, was allegedly used in one of the brand’s high-end coats—priced at an exorbitant $200,000 (approximately Rs 1.7 crore)—without any credit to the original artists or reference to its Indian origins.
One more handloom, one more headline.
— Radhika Gupta (@iRadhikaGupta) July 27, 2025
Dior sells a $200K coat using Lucknowi mukaish embroidery.
12 Indian artisans. 34 days of work.
No credit. No context. No mention of India.
The world loves Indian craftsmanship —
But rarely credits the craftspeople.
And almost never shares…
Taking to the social media platform X (formerly Twitter), Gupta voiced her disappointment over what she termed as blatant cultural appropriation. According to her, the elaborate coat was the result of the efforts of 12 Indian artisans who spent 34 days crafting the embroidery. Despite the time, skill, and heritage invested in the piece, the brand failed to acknowledge the origin of the art form or the artists who made it possible. Gupta highlighted how this is a recurring issue in global fashion—Indian crafts are often celebrated visually but stripped of their backstory and the rightful credit to the creators.
"12 Indian artisans. 34 days of work. No credit. No context. No mention of India. The world loves Indian craftsmanship—but rarely credits the craftspeople. And almost never shares the value," she lamented.
She stressed that while the world continues to benefit from Indian aesthetics, the power to shape narratives, pricing, and branding remains with those outside the country. This imbalance means that while the finished product dazzles on global runways, the hands that built it remain invisible.
Mukaish embroidery, deeply embedded in the history of Lucknow, involves weaving metallic threads into fabric to form delicate, web-like designs. Known locally as fardi ka kaam, this embroidery creates striking geometric textures. Traditionally combined with chikankari, another Lucknow-based hand embroidery, mukaish is considered a vanishing art. Few artisans continue to pursue it today, and even fewer receive the credit they deserve.
Gupta called upon India to transform from merely a supplier of materials to a powerful storyteller of its heritage. Just as Japan and Korea leveraged design and pop culture to build global influence, India, she argued, should assert its cultural authority through its rich and unparalleled crafts.
Ask ChatGPT
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